Friedel
A fully handstitched full-brogue wingtip oxford in hand-burnished Sandstone Tan calf. Dense hand-punched brogue perforations trace every seam — the W of the wingtip toe cap, the scalloped quarter edge, the topline — and gather into a geometric medallion at the toe. Cherry-red calfskin lined. Cut, lasted, and stitched by hand at our atelier.
The Full Brogue & the Kuban 304
The Friedel rests on the Kuban 304 last — an Italian dress last with a sharp elongated almond toe and a fine waist. It is a five-eyelet closed-throat oxford, quarters sewn under the vamp — the same formal chassis as the Orsay — but decorated in the fullest brogue tradition: a wingtip toe cap in the "W" silhouette, joined to the vamp along a scalloped seam, with dense hand-punched perforations tracing every edge.
The perforation work is layered. Each seam is edged with a double-row of small round holes framing larger circular punches — the classic English brogue border. At the toe, the perforations gather into a geometric medallion. Behind the lacing, the same border traces the curved quarter edge and continues along the entire topline. It is the most decorated single-material oxford in the range: a shoe that pairs the formality of the closed-throat oxford with the countryside energy of the full brogue.
The upper is a single piece of hand-burnished Sandstone Tan calf, deeply patinated at the counter and toe and lifted lighter across the vamp under wax. Lined throughout in vivid cherry-red calfskin — a signature flash of colour visible at the mouth and again through the topline brogueing when the light catches it right. Goodyear-welted onto a hand-burnished natural leather sole with a dark walnut edge and cream twisted-thread stitching along the welt.